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In autumn and winter hair goes through a lot of trials. Cold and moisture cause more frequent and noticeable oiliness and breakage. On the other hand, these are the seasons when we can more boldly change our color – toward darker shades, so that the pigments of warmer tones nourish the hair, while the color lasts longer, since the intensity of the sun's rays is weaker. Hair grows faster, which makes it easier to refresh your look come spring.
Looking for answers on how to take care of our hair during the cold months, we turned to Momchil Mateev – owner of the „Mateev“ salon. He gave us tips for maintaining hair and hairstyles that turn heads during the Christmas holidays.
Wash Your Hair Less Often, But Well!
In winter it's recommended to wash your hair less often, but thoroughly, so as to retain its hydration and regulate sebum production. Sebum is a secretion produced by the sebaceous glands in the dermis – the middle layer of the skin. It's a component of the natural oils the body produces. It contains fats, lipids, sugars and other natural chemicals. It nourishes the skin by hydrating it and protecting it from drying out. If we bathe with hotter water, the skin's pores open abruptly and sebum is released in greater quantity. This causes oiliness.
Hair can be trained. It will get used to cooler water and less frequent washing, which also reduces oiliness. It's good to wash hair every 4-5 days for normal and dry hair, and up to 2 times a week for oilier hair. In this season, when we often move from very warm rooms into sudden cold, we need to preserve the optimal warmth of the scalp and hair. This can be done by choosing a shampoo with a low pH – from 2.5 to 4.5 – for treated hair. For dyed and longer hair, concentrated shampoos are suitable, which help the lather reach every strand across the whole surface of the hair.
Lukewarm Water, Gentle Massage – a Little Pleasure and More Health for Your Hair!
Why is it important to wash your hair with cooler water? Cooler water also cleans the hair, but it keeps the hair shaft closed, retains warmth in the hair, and helps prevent it from becoming oily and tangled. We start with lukewarm water and finish with colder water.
How should we wash our hair? Washing your hair at the salon or at home is a ritual of health and pleasure. Start washing from the center of the head toward the ends. It's important for the shampoo to reach from the baby hairs at the forehead to those at the nape. Rinse and repeat. Use your fingertips to massage – slowly and without pressure, gently and in a way that stimulates blood circulation. This way, naturally and without drama, we'll also part with the hairs that fall out on their own. We lose up to 100 hairs, or 15%, per day, so it's important for this to happen easily, not through aggressive combing. In winter you can, if needed, apply shampoo up to 3 times. What matters is not over-washing the hair. We finish the wash with a cold stream of water.
Always use conditioner! Regardless of hair type, it's recommended to use conditioner. It limits oiliness and prepares the hair for combing. Apply it first along the lengths, especially the hair around the nape, where in winter hair tends to tangle and break, then continue toward the roots.
Dry Your Hair on a Low Setting and Completely!
After washing, most of us wrap our hair in a cotton towel. After it first absorbs the moisture, we need to loosen the towel and let it down, so as to free the baby hairs from its grip. They are very light and dry quickly, and we need them to keep the whole head of hair airy and voluminous.
Hair loves being brushed with a natural-bristle brush or one with small balls on the tips. Wet or dry, when brushing from the center of the hair toward the ends, it needs a little pampering. Gentle brush movements boost blood circulation, strengthen the hair root, and stimulate growth. A light pull and stretch also has a good effect on its ecosystem.
When drying, it's important to start at the roots and continue along the lengths. Use the moment to let loose like at a rock concert. The messier, the better. It's important for the hair to dry completely, because if it's wet, it's 30% more elastic and breaks easily when styling.
Toward the end of drying, switch the dryer to a cool setting, so the hair shaft closes. To be sure your hair is completely dry, your hand should be able to run through it smoothly, without catching.
It's very important to never go outside with wet hair. Besides the risk of catching a cold on frostier days, hair can freeze and crack from the inside out, which will damage it seriously.
Oils, Creams, a Scarf Instead of Gel, Mousse and a Hat
With the start of the holiday season, it's also time for more special hairstyles. But instead of heavy styling products, Momchil Mateev recommends using oils and creams that shape the hair and hold volume. This way the hair stays hydrated and won't be damaged.
Heat protection is a must when using a hair dryer or straightener. Finish with a cool-air stream from the dryer.
But as much as we want to show off our hairstyle, it's winter outside. To limit sweating and avoid causing extra oiliness, instead of a hat you can wear a scarf made of natural material. It creates an airy cushion and holds the volume.
More Winter Tips:
- Trim your hair at most every 4 weeks. In winter it grows faster and will lose its shape.
- Use hair accessories made of natural materials and, when possible, avoid pulling your hair tight into a braid, bun or ponytail. This causes headaches and hair breakage.
